La Sentier Cathare in 12 days

Sentier Cathare Day 1

Foix-Roquefixade 18.5 km 5h15

The first bit is the hard bit! (Ref; L’Ariege a pied; walk 16 and Le Pays de Foix; walk 10)

It is worthwhile to have a rest on Pic d’Aspre as it is a marvellous spot.
(Ref; Le Pays de Foix;walk 2)
How to get there; there is suppose to be a path, but difficult to find. Just before you approach to where the path turns to the left, just go straight on for about 200 meters and keep to the edge of the hill.
I would recommend to retrace your steps as I haven’t found the path which leads from the top down to the otherside.

Once at Roquefixade and you still have energy left, go and visit the castle ruin and to the hilltop above it (ref; Les sentiers d’Emilie en Ariege; walk 12 and Les Guides Louis Audebert; 50 promenades facile avec enfants; walk 26)
Fantastic views all around and you can see our house in Lieurac!
Refreshments; No refreshments on the way.
Accommodation;
Roquefixade
Gite d’Etape; 18 places tel 05 61 03 01 36 www.gite-etape-roquefixade.com
Gite d’Etape le Relais des Pogs, 800 m west of village 10 places + 20 places in rooms tel 05 61 01 14 50 perso.orange.fr/gite-relais-des-pogs/
One could camp at the top, above the castle, but make sure you have water!

Sentier Cathare Day 2

Roquefixade-Montsegur 16.5 km 4h15

Refreshments;
Montferrier shops and restaurant
Accommodation;
Montsegur
Gite d’etape de Montsegur 17 places tel 05 61 01 08 57 www.gite-montsegur.com
Gite d’Etape; Al Pitchou Parfait;tel 05 61 03 85 37 www.montsegur.org
Chambre d’hotes; l’Oustal tel 05 61 02 80 70
Hotel-Restaurant Costes, 9 rooms tel 05 61 01 10 24 www.activcom.org/costes/
Hotel Couquet 4 rooms tel 05 61 01 10 28 www.montsegur-village.org
Camping; Point Accueil Jeunes tel 05 61 01 10 27
email ; mairie.montsegur@wanadoo.fr

Sentier Cathare Day 3

Montsegur-Comus 14.5 km 3h30

The second part goes through the Gorges de la Frau, which is a fantastic walk for botanists as you get a whole range of different plants as you slowly ascend the gorge.
Once you are on the other side you take a tarmac road until you come to Comus where there is an open view of Plateau de Sault.

Refreshments; not available on the way. No shops in Comus
Accommodation
Comus
Gite d’Etape 15 places and 18 places in rooms 04 68 20 33 69
email anne@gites-comus.com
Camurac (another 10 min walk)
Gite d’Etape; Amicale des randonneurs La Marmite 20 places tel 04 68 20 73 31 www.gites-camurac.com
Gite d’Etape Le Grillon frileux 42 places tel 04 68 20 73 31 www.paysdesault.com/camurac
Gites du camping Les Sapins 16 places tel 04 68 20 38 11 www.lessapins-camurac.com
Camping; Les Sapins (see above)

Sentier Cathare Day 4

Comus-Espezel or Belvis 20.5 km 5h15

Mainly on a forest road until la Benague from where you go through the open fields(flat!!!).
Don’t miss pas de l’Ours at the beginning of the walk.
You can either stay the night at Espezel or La Gineste near Belvis.
I am sure there must be a shortcut from Montplaisir to La Gineste.
Refreshments; not available on the way
Accommodation;
Espezel
Hotel=Restaurant Grau 9 rooms tel 04 68 20 30 14
Gite d’Etape 60 places tel 04 68 20 72 89
Camping Municipal
Belvis
La Gineste 23 places and 4 places tel 04 68 20 46(76?) 31
email pascal.chenal@laposte.net

Sentier Cathare Day 5

Espezel/Belvis to Puivert 17 km 4h15

Again through a piece of dark forests, until you come to the open valley near Puivert.

Once at Puivert don’t miss the museum and a swim in the lake next to the camping.
If you take the southern route then it might be worthwhile to go on to Nebias as tomorrow it will be a long day!
Refreshments; not available on the way, except in Puivert
Accomodation;
Puivert
Gite d’Etape; Metairie d’en Bor 15places and 6 places tel 04 68 20 11 75
Gite d’Etape; Relais des Marionnettes 20 places tel 04 68 20 80 69 www.gite-puivert.com
Gite d’Etape; La Peyrouse 9 places tel 04 68 20 24 19 www.membres.lycos.fr/peyrousebarbe
Camping de Fontclaire; tel 04 68 20 00 50
Cheap and simple and next to a lake!!!
I have already used this camping twice on my holidays. Ideal for just a few nights.
Nebias
Gite d’Etape lAssaladou 24 places 1.5 km north of village. tel 04 68 20 80 89
Camping le Fontaulie Sud tel 04 68 20 17 62


Sentier Cathare Day 6

Puivert-Quillan 21 km 5h45 or
Puivert-Marsa (Southern Alternative) 27.5 km 7h15

Refreshments; Nebias shop and restaurant
Accomodation;
Quillan
Gite d’Etape La Forge 70 places tel 04 68 20 23 79
Laval
Chambres d’Hotes Campagne Saint Bertrand
tel 04 68 20 06 17
Or for southern trail
Marsa
Gite d’Etape de Labeau 2.5 km from village 14 places + 9 in rooms. tel 04 68 20 54 12
Axat
Gite d’Etape 6 places au camping de la Cremade, 2 km east of Axat tel 04 68 20 50 64
Gite d’Etape Rocher de l’Ours at village, 20 places in rooms. tel 04 68 20 53 34 email webmaster@lerocherdelours
Gite d’Etape au camping du Pont d’Alies


Sentier Cathare Day 7

Quillan-Bugerach 24.5 km 6.30 hrs or

Marsa-Aigues-Bonnes 26.5km 6.30 hrs

Refreshments; not available on the way on northern route. On southern route Axat and Puylaurens, shops
Accomodation;
Bugerach
Gite d’Etape a la Maison de la Nature et de la Randonee 32 places, no kitchen! tel 04 68 69 86 72 (86 72=83 88?)
Chambres d’Hotes Le Presbytere 16 places + 6 rooms. tel 04 68 69 82 12
Restaurant l’Oustal dal Pech. tel 04 68 69 87 59

Or for southern trail
Aigues-Bonnes
Gite d’Etape d’Aigues-Bonnes 15 places in 3 rooms tel 04 68 20 51 90
Fenouillet
Gite d’Etape Les Nautes 20 places tel 04 68 59 93 40

Sentier Cathare Day 8

Bugarach – Camps-sur-Agly 14.5km 4h or
Aigues-Bonnes - Prugnanes 15 km 4h

Refreshments; no refreshment on the way
Accomodation
Camps-sur Agly
Gite d’Etape la ferme de Champs 15 places tel 04 68 69 87 53
Gite d’Etape de Bastide 2km west of village 50 places in 4 rooms and chambers d’hotes
tel 04 68 69 87 57 email rlm@labastide.net
Camping a la ferme; Mme Trebiol tel 04 68 69 88 36

Or for southern trail
Prugnanes
Gite d’Etape communal 17 places tel 04 68 59 10 30 (marie)

Sentier Cathare Day 9

Camps-sur-Agly–Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse 20 km 5h15
Prugnanes –Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse 17.5 km 4h30

In both cases you will pass the entrance of gorges de Galamus, so don’t forget to go into it via the road.
Once you are near Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse go to the castle Peyrepertuse, if you still have the energy left.

Refreshments; no refreshments on the way, except in Duihac-sous-Peyrepertuse and at the entrance to the castle
Accomodation
Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse
Gite d’Etape de Duilhac 24 places tel 04 68 45 01 74
email; gite.duilhac@wanadoo.fr
Gite d’Etape Bergerie de Bugamus 12 places tel 04 68 64 34 42
L’Embelie Cathare 14 places tel 04 68 45 01 74 www.embelliecathare.com
? Auberge du Vieux Moulin 14 rooms tel 04 68 45 02 17
Cucugnan
L’Auberge du Vigneron 6 rooms tel 04 68 45 03 00
Chambre d’Hotes La Fleurine 8 places
Padern
Gite d’Etape 32(19?)) places 04 68 45 40 58 (marie 14h a 17h30)

Sentier Cathare Day 10

Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse –Tuchan 24 km 6h30

Don’t miss the castle Queribus, as it gives marvellous views Pic du Canigou, the Mediteranean etc
Refreshments; at Queribus and Padern
Accomodation
Tuchan
Gite d’Etape Saint-Roch 2km north-west of village, 12 places tel 04 68 45 47 91
Le relais d’Aguilar tel 4 68 45 47 84
Camping du Domaine La Peyriere
tel 04 68 45 46 50
Camping Les Olivier


Sentier Cathare Day 11

Tuchan-Durban-Corbieres 25.5 km 6h45

On the way don’t forget to see castle Aguilar

Refreshments; no refreshments on the way
Accomodation;
Durban-Corbieres
Hotel restaurant l’Amandier tel 04 68 45 89 48

Sentier Cathare Day 12

Durban-Corbieres-Port La Nouvelle 25.5 km 6h45

Refreshments; Roquefort-des-Corbieres; shop and restaurant
Accomodation;
Port La Nouvelle

Sigean

Ariege

Pic du Saint-Barthelemy and/or the Lake of Trout and/or the Devil
from the northern direction (Lavelanet)

Ref; L'Ariege a pied; walk 13

This has so far been my most exciting walk, a real highlight (2340m!), but not an easy one as instead of going to the lakes I went to the top!
You start from around 1300 m. The first bit was quite steep, but you can take the forest road, which is a more gentle, but longer way. Soon you are out of the forests and have open views all the way around. After 2-3 km there is a fork(point 3). Not very well signposted, both are yellow!
If you want to go to the top go right, if to the lake take the left. But it is worth to go to the top!
Absolutely fantastic views; That’s what made this my most exciting walk. And once you are up there, you can always go along the lakes back, but not the other way around!
So let’s go up; just keep going and only at the very end you will be able to see over to the other side and see the whole of the Pyrenees in front of you. Stunning!
There is only one other peak, which blocks a tiny section of your view, otherwise you can look 360 degrees all around you.
Definitely worthwhile to have your lunch there. It took me 3 hours to get there. On the way back I went via the lakes. It’s very steep down to the first few other tiny lakes. I went along them to cool down and then I continued the path along these little lakes (direction east) and not as is on the map, where it is indicated to go north already by the first of the little lakes.
But you could take this one and let me know what is there! Waterfalls?
Anyway I came to an unrecognisable steep path down; it was all big boulders, but the “path” was marked and you have to jump from one stone to the next. That’s why it would be difficult to go to the lakes first and then come this way to climb up.
I bypassed the devil’s lake and went to the trout lake where I had a nice swim, but not too long and had a good rest and a cup of coffee.(bring your own!!) Also a very nice spot indeed.
From there it is a gentle walk back to the fork in the path where I thought I went wrong!
Probably it took me only 2 to 2 1/2 hr to walk down, lunch, swim, rest not included!
I have no photos as my wife was in England to take photos of our first grandchild! What a shame!
But here is a photo my son took from the top of the ski lift at Mont d’Olmes, which gives you nearly the same view to the west, this time with snow!














Ariege; Reserve Nationale d'Orlu and Refuge d'en Beys

Ref 1) Midi-Pyrenees a pied; walk 18; reserve d'Orlu
Ref 2) Les Sentiers d'Emilie en Ariege; walk 22
Ref 3) Les guides Louis Audoubert; Vers les refuges des Pyrenees; walk 45

Ideal walk for children up to and in the valley, you can also hire a donkey to carry the luggage, which might make you able to go even further all the way to the refuge D'en Beys (coffee!) without too much effort.
It starts off with walking through forests (2 km distance, 300 m up) until you come to a big valley (altitude 1480m), where during the summer you will be able to see cows grazing and half way the valley marmots on your left.
At the end of the valley (app 5 km) comes a short, but difficult bit through another bit of forest, where after is more enjoyable path, but rocky, with open views all around and most likely you will be able to see the isards (wild goats)
Then you will come to a lake and yes just behind it is the refuge (1970m).
All together the walk will have taken you 3-4 hrs.
It's 3 hours back, all the way downhill!
Of course you can stay the night and walk next day to Pic de la Grave (2671 m) or to the next refuge














Just before we come to the open valley

Herault; around St Guilhem -le-Desert

Herault; Walks around St Guilhem –le-Desert

Ref; 20 Randonnees choisis dans les monts de St Guilhem–le-Desert

Introduction; First time I came here was about 20 yrs ago and fell straight away in love with it. Been back many times now, but it has become now very touristy. Still it.s a marvellous place to be as there are so many things to see and do.
But let's start with the walks

Walk 1; Le Chateau du Verdus 1 hour
Very short walk from the village, follow directions Ermitage de Notre Dame de lieu Plaisant (gr74 north). Once you are on the ridge of the first hill you are half way.
There you turn right, instead of left. There is a sign that wishes you not to continue to the chateau du Verdus. It’s up to you now.
The path is not easy and the last 20 meters you have to find your way.
Make sure you enter from the north side!!! Warn people to be careful as there are very steep drops on the other side and it is a ruin!!
But it is a marvellous spot.
Once I met a group of young lads who got there the evening before with candlelight (Mad Englishman!!) You can look down into the village and the other way (north) you can see the flat plateaus of the “causses”
Photo 1) Chateau de Verdus
Photo 2) Chateau de Vedus from Monastry St Guilhem-le-Desert

Walk 2; La source du Bout du Monde. 1 hour
Very easy walk (level!!!) for all ages.
The first time I came here there were only a few terasses of olivegroves, but now they have restored many groves.
Just follow the stream until the end. Half way on the left, easy to miss, there is a little pond ideal for cooling down.
When you are near the end you can see in front of you very high up arches.They are called the Fenestrelles, which is actually a construction for a footpath (see walk 11)

Walk 3; L’Ermitage de Notre Dame de Lieu Plaisant (gr74 north) 2 1/2 hrs
Another very nice walk. Once you are on the ridge of the first hill, it is a more or less level walk all the way through the “Garrigues” There is a source of water at the Ermitage.

For the next three walks you have to take the "crashroad"(D122),which you can reach via Arboras or via Causse de la Selle; This is a lovely road,tarmacced but very long and bendy!

Walk 8a Ravin du Joncas.
This little excursion I did with some young lads ages ago, so I cant remember much. Path was badly marked, but once down you follow the river bed north and you will find dozens of rusty cars. One way to get rid of cars I suppose!

Walk 8b and c; Grotte et Menhir de la Boume Mouton.
Couldn’t find them!

Walk 9a and b; Dolmen de la Rigoule and De Roquebrune

Walk 11 Point de vue Max Negre; 3.30 hr total, but it is worth, for example with young children, to do part of it!!!)
Best walk there is!!!! Follow gr74 south. Once you are underneath and near the high rock (roc de la Bisonne) you have to decide which way you want to go.
Generaly with a group I go left,(as I know an easier route to get to Max Negre) and walk along the valley.
It is a very level walk up to les Fenestrelles, there it goes up and then you turn around the corner.
The next bit was such a long time ago that I can’t remember.
The last years I approached Max Negre from the other side via a forest road from St Jean de Fos all the way up to Maison Forestiere. From there it is an hour walk and very level! Fantastic views.


Other things to see and do;
River Herault; Fantastic for canoeing and swimming. Water is warm!!!! Lets say it different; it is not cold!
Pont du Diable and lake;Ideal for children
Cave Clamouse;fantastic.
Vallee du Bueges(along the D122).